I found an awesome pattern for a Bomber Hat over at Juli's blog. It was written for a righty knitter (knitting from the left needle to the right needle). Normally, this isn't a huge problem for me, but in this particular case, I wasn't sure if it mattered and in one spot, it sure made my head hurt trying to get all the stitches cast on!

So, with Juli's permission, I've re-written the pattern for Sinister Knitters (knitting from right needle to left needle). I've also "shortened" them by writing them for 2 circulars---so instead of having to write out a full round, I only write out one needle and you do it on both needles.

Bomber Hat (mirrored style)

Tools: US 8 DPN and 16” Circular

Earflaps: With two DPNs, CO 11st

Row 1: k1, purl to last st, k1

Row 2: k1, kfb, knit to last two sts, kfb, k1

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until there are 23sts on the needle

Row 13: k1, purl to last st, k1

Row 14: knit across

Repeat Rows 13-14 until piece measures 3.5in from cast-on edge. Leaving earflap on needle, cut a 12 tail of yarn. Repeat for second earflap, but don’t cut yarn. Move this earflap to circular needle.

Hat: With one earflap on circular, CO 29sts, knit the 23sts of the 2nd earflap onto the circular. CO 29sts and then (without twisting!) knit the 23sts of the 1st earflap. Knit 15 more stitches, place marker. (104 sts)

Divide the stitches between the two needles, such that the marker would be between one needle and the next. To prevent losing the marker, you can put the marker in one stitch---this helps keep track of which needle ends a round.

Row 1: p1, k6, p1, k6, p2tog, k21, p2tog, k6, p1, k6 both needles (100sts)

Row 2: p1, k6, p1, k21, p1, k6, p1, k6, p1, k6 both needles

Repeat Row 2 until piece measures 7 inches from cast-on edge (10.5 inches from earflap base) or desired length. Begin decreases:

Dec row 1: p1, k2tog, k2, ssk, p1, k6, p1, ssk, k17, k2tog, p1, k6, p1, ssk, k2, k2tog both needles (88 sts)

Dec row 2: p1, k4, p1, k6, p1, k7, ssk, k1, k2tog, k7, p1, k6, p1, k4 both needles (84 sts)

Dec row 3: p1, k4, p1, k2tog, k2, ssk, p1, ssk, k13, k2tog, p1, ssk, k2, k2tog, p1, k4 both needles (72 sts)

Dec row 4: p1, k4, p1, k4, p1, k5, ssk, k1, k2tog, k5, p1, k4, p1, k4 both needles (68 sts)

Dec row 5: p1, k2tog, ssk, p1, k4, p1, ssk, k9, k2tog, p1, k4, p1, ssk, k2tog both needles (56 sts)

Dec row 6: p1, k2, p1, k4, p1, k3, ssk, k1, k2tog, k3, p1, k4, p1, k2 both needles (52 sts)

Dec row 7: p1, k2, p1, k2tog, ssk, p1, ssk, k5, k2tog, p1, ssk, k2tog, p1, k2 both needles (40 sts)

Dec row 8: p1, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, k1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1, p1, k2, p1, ssk both needles (32 sts)

Dec row 9: cut yarn and pull through rem stitches. Draw up tightly to fasten. Weave in ends.

Make flaps: While holding hat upside down, pick up 29 sts along bottom edge between earflaps. Knitting first stitch of every row, knit in stockinette until flap measures desired length. BO knitwise on the WS. Weave in ends. Repeat for second flap.

I-Cords: Pick up middle three stitches on one earflap. Knit a 10 I-cord. BO loosely and weave in ends. Repeat for second earflap.

I'm not sure how every other designer out there works up a pattern. I'd really love to know right now. I can see this design in my head (except for the end panels/corners; not sure what to do there yet...) but I'm having a heck of a time trying to translate from my head into knit and purl stitches.

First of all, there's so many choices. I could do a stockinette stitch background with my designs in purl stitch. Or, I could do a stockinette stitch background and use YOs to create my designs. Hmm....

I've got an idea for a leaf border (from Knitted Embellishments) combined with Columns and Twists, surrounding a 6/8 cable. Since those are worked width-wise (increasing the length of the stole as I go), I need to either (a) plan the designs in the remainder to be knitted in the same direction or (b) figure out a knit order and plan to change knit directions at least once.

In my last post regarding this stole, I showed off some line drawings to explain the areas I was "defining". I still haven't decided whether to bring the leaf-and-complex-cable border all the way down both edges, or to make the end panels full-width. And, if I do go "full-width", do I keep the leaf-edging still? Even more worrisome: what do I put in the end panels?

Well, how about another "line drawing" sample of what I intend to put in the main panel, down the length of the stole?

The row of rings will flip over and repeat in the other direction, past the Borromean Rings. (click on the image to see it larger.)

Thanks to my Barnes & Noble book spree on Friday night (oh! I didn't blog about that yet!!!!), I now have A Gathering of Lace, in which Ingrid's Bridal Knot Shawl was very inspirational in my continued design process.

Whew. It's 11:30pm on Sunday night and I've been staring at beads for a few hours now. Some are easy to put price tags on---I can look them up online and do a basic markdown from there. But others....I have a talent for picking out rather unique beads which can't be found online! So, I'm stopping my endless hunt for numbers and guesstimates and I'm going to knit.

Oh, wait! My Ravelry invite came in!!!! Well....now what should I do? I'm really having a blast working up this sock pattern---I've completely ditched the pattern I wrote up and am working as I knit. I sure hope I can read my knitting later and work up the pattern from it.

I'm gonna need a right-handed knitter to tell me if I'll need to reverse my stitch directions or not....I still can't figure that out! Anyone wanna volunteer? I think I'll try to get some yarn that's easy to see and do some pictures of what my ssk, k2tog, skp (is that slip, knit, pass slip stitch over?), and such look like.

As an aside, Randy made his first try at Ethiopian food tonight.... yum. Is it too late for seconds?

Oh, and I forgot to mention that I put my
Ultimate Sweater Machine Deluxe up on Ebay. It has just under 5 days left before some lucky person gets it. I have to say I'm sweating bullets here 'cause I listed it at 99 cents---knowing that people would bid it up---and no reserve ('cause I hate people that do low opening bids and then put a reserve on it!). Right now, it's sitting at $2.91 and I'm trying so hard to believe it'll go for more!

A while back, I posted regarding the Gelderland socks found in a furniture catalog. Did you ever see them? Look:

The Gelderland Sock

I wish I could surprise you all with a photo of my completed version of this sock, but I've been a little distracted.... (making maps, killing gross things and getting my butt kicked).

Instead, I have the pattern worked out--in both written and chart form. I don't know if anyone is interested in it, but I'll post the written instructions here. Maybe someone who's not quite so knit-distracted could check them out. I'll try to get the charts up as soon as I figure out how to make them web-friendly... Edit: Charts are up, see the table below for two different versions of each chart. Let me know which you prefer, so I know what would be better to put in the PDF I want to make.

ETA: I'm working on this project now and already I can tell you it's not right. Updates to follow.

Gelderland Socks

Abbreviation: sk2p: sl1, k2tog, psso

CO 60 sts. Place marker at beg. of rnd.

Leg: Work in k2/p2 rib for 1 inch.

Begin pattern:

Round 1: k13, m1, k2tog, k28, m1, ktog, k15

Round 2: k12, m1, sk2p, m1, k27, m1, sk2p, m1, k15

Round 3: k11, m1, k2tog, k2, m1, k2tog, k24, m1, k2tog, k2, m1, k2tog, k13

Round 4: k10, m1, k2tog, k1, m1, k2tog, k1, m1, k2tog, k22, m1, k2tog, k1, m1, k2tog, k1, m1, k2tof, k12

Round 5: k9, m1, k2tog, k6, m1, k2tog, k20, m1, k2tog, k6, m1, k2tog, k11

Round 6: k8, m1, k2tog, k1, m1, sk2p, m1, k1, m1, k2tog, k1, m1, k2tog, k18, m1, k2tog, k1, m1, sk2p, m1, k1, m1, k2tog, k1, m1, k2tog, k10

Round 7: k9, m1, k2tog, k6, m1, k2tog, k20, m1, k2tog, k6, m1, k2tog, k11

Round 8: k10, m1, k2tog, k1, m1, k2tog, k1, m1, k2tog, k22, m1, k2tog, k1, m1, k2tog, k1, m1, k2tof, k12

Round 9: k11, m1, k2tog, k2, m1, k2tog, k24, m1, k2tog, k2, m1, k2tog, k13

Round 10: k12, m1, sk2p, m1, k27, m1, sk2p, m1, k13

Round 11: k13, m1, k2tog, k28, m1, ktog, k15

Round 12-13: K all

Round 14: *k1, m1, k2tog, rep from *

15-16: K all

17: K13, m1, k2tog, k28, m1, k2tog, k15

Rep Rounds 15-17 until leg is desired length.

Knit all for 2 more rounds.

Knit in heel of your choice

Foot

From the beginning of the round (same place as for the leg) work as
follows.

Round 1: k22, m1, k2tog, k12, m1, k2tog, k22
Round 2-3: K all.

Now, repeat following five rounds until foot is desired length

Round 1: k19, m1, k2tog, k18, m1, k2tog, k19

Round 2: k18, m1, k2tog, k20, m1, k2tog, k18

Round 3: k17, m1, k2tog, [k3, m1, k2tog, k12, m1, k2tog, k3], m1, k2tog,
k17. On last repetition, in Round 3, replace between [ and ] with [k22].

Round 4: k16, m1, k2tog, k24, m1, k2tog, k16

Round 5: k15, m1, k2tog, k26, m1, k2tog, k15

I like a wider toe, so I usually knit to within one inch of the end of my foot and then begin decreases. If you want a narrower toe, do fewer reps of the above pattern and begin decreases when two inches from toe.

K 2 more rounds, then continue with your own choice of toe.

How do you know which you'd prefer? How far down (measuring from the tip of your big toe) does your foot begin to narrow? Use that for when to begin your decreases.

I'll be back later (I hope) with chart images, for those who prefer charts. And eventually, a PDF to download, so you don't have to copy/paste/format so much. *smile*